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Live Aquatic Greenery

 

Aquatropics offers a wide variety of aquatic plants for the Aquarist with the "wet thumb". This most enjoyable part of the hobby offers not only aesthetic beauty to the aquarium but also aids in maintaining a balanced ecosystem.

 

Follow the suggestions below and start "growing" your hobby today!

 

 

Planting Tips:

 

Many choices are available and your Aquatropics assistant can help in pointing out the best choices for optimum plant growth. Depth of gravel should be a minimum of three and preferably four inches. Color is irrelevant.
Bunch plants already come with a weight to aid in holding them down. However, it would be prohibitively expensive for the harvesters at the nursery to trim the stems as well, so someone else must. Simply remove the weight, trim as many leaves from the stem as is practical, then replace the weight in a spiral fashion but not too tightly. Some plants will survive without this simple procedure, but more often the leaves under the weight rot over the first week or two, and this causes the stem to deteriorate at the base and the rest of the plant to surface. Some advocate letting the plant float suspended in the water until roots develop (two to three weeks) and then removing the weight altogether before planting. This is wonderful for those who have the time and patience, particularly if a spare tank is available.
In my 25 years in the business, I can unequivocally state that I have found this to be the most common cause of swordplant mortality. When planting, hold a rooted plant between your thumb, index, and middle fingers. Gently drill a hold with the foremost finger, and remove your fingers after reaching a selected depth. Then, and this is critical , pull up on the entire plant very gently until you can actually see the top of the root structure. This is less critical among cryptocorynes than among swordplants, and is an absolute necessity with pigmy chain swordplants.
Recent research is indicating that the intensity of the light is even more critical than the duration . A typical color enhance bulb, such as a gro-lux , may be adequate for a ten gallon (or other 12 inch high aquarium) but taller tanks need a higher degree of luminance. Some modern reflectors or hoods have the capacity to hold two bulbs. If this is the choice you make, we strongly suggest that two entirely different type of bulbs be used. One choice would be an enhance bulb in front so that your fish show to their best advantage, and a bulb more advantageous to plant growth in the rear. If it is decided that only one bulb will be used, there are many new choices available. Excellent results are reported with Aquarilux. Naturalux and Trilux varieties. Again your Aquatropics assistant is an excellent source of information in this area.
The old adage that fish droppings will fertilize the plants is partially true. Modern filtering techniques are often rendering the aquarium too sterile! Most liquid fertilizers, in addition to replacing needed trace elements and minerals, actually aid in changing mulm ( a pretty word for fish droppings) into substances that are more easily absorbed by the plant's roots. A good quality liquid fertilizer (shake thoroughly before using) may be adequate for a beginner's aquarium or even one of small dimensions. However, those wanting optimum results, especially for swordplants, anubias varieties, cryptocorynes, and any plants that send runners to reproduce, would be wise to also purchase one of the many products available that apply fertilizer directly to the gravel.
It is generally advisable to place some plants toward the rear of the tank in order to hide heaters, siphons and the like. Next, rocks or driftwood will hide the less attractive lower plant sections as well as offer both a contrast and feeling of depth. Then, mid-range plants are placed with another level of rocks or other decorations. Lastly, small foreground plants in the very front complete the descending motif and further hide the bottoms of the plants immediately to their rear. Most of this is common sense, but this initial plan can eventually go astray if some pruning isn't done as the plants mature. When selecting plants for tank placement, pay attention to how rapidly they grow and what height they will eventually achieve. In general, bunch plants grow rapidly while rooted plants grow much more slowly.
Some medications that are not directly harmful to fish can be lethal to plants. Dyes such as malachite green and methelene blue should not be used. In addition, many antibiotics can be equally dangerous. There are medications available that are less harmful. Carefully reading labels is always a necessity before introducing any foreign substance that can affect the balance of an aquarium's system and should be followed for plants as well as fish.

A word about terrestrial plants in the aquarium.
In Nature most aquatic plants grow above as well as below the water's surface. Many reproduce through flowering and pollination that occurs in the atmosphere. Some of the plants you buy at Aquatropics were grown above the water for various reasons. They should adapt, grow, and develop a softer, and usually more attractive submerse leaf structure. Other plants that are often available are not aquatic at all. These plants cannot grow or propagate underwater. A few will exist for months, but the majority will have a life span of only a few weeks when submerged. These should be viewed as accent plants (for they are usually quite attractive) and pose no danger when added for their ephemeral beauty.

Plants we carry:

 

  • Amazon
  • Brazil
  • Horemantii
  • Mellon
  • Pigmy Chain Sword
  • Portoalegrensis
  • Radicans
  • Rangeri
  • Red Mellon
  • Ruffle
  • Val-Corkscrew
  • Val-Italian
  • Val-Jungle
  • Val-Contortion
  • Sag-narrow leaf
  • Sag-wide leaf
  • Sag-dwarf
  • Micro Sword-Lilaeopsis
  • Onion-Crinum
  • Acorus-green
  • Acorus-gree/white
  • African Sword-Thaliodes
  • Arrowhead
  • Chinese Evergreen
  • Colorama
  • Florida Beauty
  • Mondo grass-dwarf
  • Mondo grass-green
  • Mondo grass-green/white
  • Palm Tree
  • Pineapple-compacta
  • Pongol Sword
  • Sanderiana-baby doll
  • Sanderiana-green/white
  • Balansae
  • Cordata
  • Costada
  • Lutea
  • Petchii
  • Retrospiralis
  • Walkeri
  • Wendtii-green
  • Wendtii-red
  • Willisii
  • Bolvinianis
  • Capuroni
  • Crispus
  • Elongatus
  • Longiplumulosus
  • Madagascar Lace
  • Ulvaceus
  • African Fern-bolbitis
  • Banana plant
  • Barclaya longifolia
  • Duckweed
  • Dwarf Lily
  • Isoete
  • Java Fern-microsorium
  • Java Moss-vesicularia
  • Spatterdock-Cape Fear
  • Tiger Lotus
  • Watersprite
  • Afzelii
  • Barteri
  • "Frazeri"-(congensis)
  • Lanceolata
  • Nana
  • Aluminium
  • Ambulia
  • Anarcharis
  • Bacopa
  • Cabomba
  • Cabomba-wild
  • Cardamine
  • Didiplis
  • Dragon Tongue
  • Hairgrass
  • Hedge-bronze
  • Hedge-cherry
  • Hedge-green
  • Hornwort
  • Hygro-giant
  • Hygro-green
  • Hygro-scarlet
  • Hygo-sunset
  • Filigree frill
  • Foxtail-green
  • Foxtail-red
  • Lloydiella
  • Ludgigia-broad
  • Ludwigia-narrow
  • Monywort
  • Pine-princess
  • Pine-umbrella
  • Pot.gayi
  • Purple Waffle
  • Rotala Macranda
  • Rotala Magenta
  • Temple-green
  • Temple-scarlet
  • Wisteria
  • Zosterifolia

Many of the above plants are also available in potted form that are grown in a hydroponic manner.

A full selection of outdoor pond plants and water lilies is also avaiable

Please be understanding if some of the plants (or larger sizes of other plants) are not immediately available. Some plants are seasonal, some are very slow growing, and many are very labor intensive!